Cathy Horyn Author Archive
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Cathy Horyn

Critic-at-Large
@CathyHoryn
Cathy Horyn
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  1. paris fashion week
    Is Bourgeois Elegance Back?Miu Miu is betting on it with poodle skirts and your mother’s pearls.
  2. paris fashion week
    Two of the Best Fall Collections Have Something in CommonHermès’ Nadège Vanhee and The Row’s Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen reflect a similar drive and grit.
  3. paris fashion week
    When Art Inspires FashionAt Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe, sculpture and craft take center stage in the designs.
  4. paris fashion week
    A Divisive Debut at McQueenMany were horrified by Sean McGirr’s first collection for the house. I liked it.
  5. paris fashion week
    A Great Loewe ShowJonathan Anderson stuffed this collection with inspiring clothes.
  6. paris fashion week
    Finally, a New Voice for WomenAs debuts go, Chemena Kamali at Chloé could not have done better.
  7. paris fashion week
    A Designer Who’s Actually Making Clothes for WomenWhy is that so novel these days?
  8. paris fashion week
    To Be TransparentAt Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello put on a see-through, nudie fantasy show. That has very little to do with what women will eventually wear.
  9. milan fashion week
    Bottega Veneta Finally Nailed ItMatthieu Blazy spent seasons trying to home in on a distinct vision of a woman. Three years in, he found her.
  10. milan fashion week
    One of Milan’s Most Original Fashion Brands Is a Relatively Small OnePlus: Marni stuns and Versace depresses.
  11. milan fashion week
    At Prada, a Lady With a Bit of SubversionPerspective really counted in this show in terms of what you understood about the clothes.
  12. milan fashion week
    The Italians Call It ‘Gentle Luxury’Plus: a terrific Diesel show that appealed to the Internet.
  13. london fashion week
    At Burberry, Undeniably Cool But a Lack of BiteA lot of what Daniel Lee has done, and can do, can be quite subversive. Will he ever unleash that?
  14. new york fashion week
    Marc Jacobs and Thom Browne: A Tale of Two DesignersBoth are experts regarding fabrics and conveying a feeling.
  15. new york fashion week
    At Luar, Beefed Up Silhouettes and Rich TexturesStill, shows at New York Fashion Week mostly fizzled.
  16. new york fashion week
    New York Designers Flex Their ExperienceDesigners Tory Burch, Stuart Vevers of Coach, and Sergio Hudson show polished collections.
  17. new york fashion week
    At Khaite, Lots of Drama and Little DesignMeanwhile, other labels like Fforme, Altuzarra, and Eckhaus Latta showed clothes that focus on fit.
  18. new york fashion week
    Tommy Hilfiger’s New New Take on American PrepOn the first full day of New York Fashion Week, designers put muscle into their collections.
  19. paris haute couture
    Maison Margiela’s Couture Collection Will Go Down in Fashion HistoryJohn Galliano designed a collection that leaves other couture shows in its dust.
  20. paris haute couture
    At Chanel, a Couture Show That Plays It SafeVirginie Viard is not taking risks. Strange for an innovative house like Chanel.
  21. paris haute couture
    At Paris Couture Fashion Week, Schiaparelli Looks to AIWhile Maria Grazia Chiuri of Dior focused on the past.
  22. menswear
    At Men’s, a Shift Toward a Narrow SilhouettePlus standout shows from Loewe and Dior.
  23. style
    Balenciaga’s Creepy (and Cool) Take on Hollywood CultureThink of the monstrous sneakers as a symbol of that too-muchness.
  24. fashion
    Phoebe Philo’s Return Is a Wake-Up CallWhen I previewed her new collection in London, I thought: People will lose their minds.
  25. fashion
    For Christopher John Rogers, a New Direction“I was trying not to overthink anything,” says Rogers.
  26. pfw spring 2024
    At Miu Miu, a Modern Female CharacterAt Chanel, the opposite.
  27. pfw spring 2024
    I’m Ready for My Close-up, DemnaFor Paris Fashion Week, Balenciaga’s creative director asked friends, family, and me to walk the runway.
  28. pfw spring 2024
    Sarah Burton’s Stunning Final BowThe creative director of Alexander McQueen’s last collection was a tour de force.
  29. pfw spring 2024
    At Paris Fashion Week, a Play on Clothing as ArmorFeeling a sense of power in your clothes isn’t about covering up, shows Yohji Yamamoto.
  30. fashion
    Azzedine Alaïa, Fashion’s Greatest ArchivistOver 20,000 articles of clothing he amassed are now on display in Paris.
  31. pfw spring 2024
    At Paris Fashion Week, an Extraordinary Show (Finally)By contrast, The Row was rather drowsy.
  32. fashion
    Inside the Closets of Fashion’s Most ObsessiveA new book features retailer Carla Sozzani, costume designer Sandy Powell, and more on their collections.
  33. pfw spring 2024
    At Paris Fashion Week, a Poverty of ImaginationDesigners need to stop pulling from the archives.
  34. mfw spring 2024
    At Bottega, an Odyssey of Craft Evades the Real WorldBut Maximilian Davis of Ferragamo shows his best collection yet.
  35. mfw spring 2024
    Everybody is a CriticGucci’s new designer Sabato De Sarno confronts a fashion consensus. But look closely.
  36. mfw spring 2024
    In a Big Shift, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons Go GlamPlus: a Tom Ford debut.
  37. milan fashion week
    Does Gen Z Want ‘In Your Face’?Glenn Martens of Diesel answers that question.
  38. lfw spring 2024
    At London Fashion Week, a Changing of the GuardLed by Daniel Lee, who hit “reset” with this latest Burberry collection.
  39. nyfw spring 2024
    Elena Velez’s Hard-core Stance on FeminismAnother designer, Ashlyn, takes a more reasonable approach.
  40. nyfw spring 2024
    At Gabriela Hearst, Substance But No ExcessAt Tory Burch, the opposite.
  41. nyfw spring 2024
    At New York Fashion Week, Sheer Goes MainstreamPlus: I got rained out at Gypsy Sport.
  42. fall fashion issue 2023
    Fashion’s Talent ProblemAfter a century of marrying risky artistry with commercial savvy, the fashion industry has all but abandoned design talent.
  43. style
    American Sportswear Is Back, Baby!Proenza Schouler and Eckhaus Latta lead the charge. Plus: Overly designed clothes at Khaite made for Instagram.
  44. nyfw spring 2024
    The Fakery Begins at New York Fashion WeekPlus: Peter Do’s Helmut Lang Debut didn’t quite hit the mark.
  45. now open
    Dries Van Noten Sets Up Shop on the Left Bank (Again)The brand’s new beauty and accessories boutique sits next to its men’s store and a few doors down from womenswear.
  46. couture fashion week
    At Valentino, a Shift to SimplicityPlus: Gaultier gets its impudent outrage from the subculture.
  47. couture fashion week
    Can Couture Be Contemporary?Balenciaga’s Demna thinks so.
  48. couture fashion week
    At Couture Fashion Week, Women ThriveVirginie Viard of Chanel and Maria Grazia Chiuri of Dior offered collections that delight.
  49. style
    Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton, Confident But Without Audacity“When you’re chosen, you’ve just got to ride,” Pharrell said.
  50. style
    At Gucci in Seoul, A Shift in PerspectiveIt served an important purpose — to broaden the definition of fashion and style beyond Western values.
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